Yarn and fabric '' intelligent '' gain market

Textile industries have shrunk over the Decade, but saw demand grow recently, with the interest of retailers to replace items imported by national parts. Manufacturers of yarns and fabrics reported increased demand above 10%. The Brazilian Association of textile and clothing (Abit) designs for category 9% growth in production this year, coming to 2.08 million tons. And companies that invest in yarns and fabrics "smart" have expanded even more.
Rhodia, a company that integrates the Belgian Solvay group, pointed to a 50% growth in sales in 2015 and, this year, keep the pace of expansion. "In 2014, about 20% of the sales were of items released for less than five years. In 2015, this index has reached 30%. The wires with innovation help to leverage sales in Brazil and exports textile industries, "said Renato Boaventura, CEO of the global business unit fibres of the Solvay Group.
In 2015, Rhodia has put on the market a polyamide yarn already dyed white, generating savings for industries with bleaching. This year, the most sought after innovation is a degradable polyamide. The wire breaks down in low oxygen environments and presence of micro-organisms typical of landfills. Under these conditions, the tissue breaks down in less than three years, while traditional polyamide takes decades to disappear. Bonaventure said the price of yarn is practically equal to that of conventional polyamide, which also favoured the rapid adoption of the product. "This technology was released last year and already represents 10% of our sales," he said.
One of the companies that adopted the polyamide biodegradable was the Malwee, which launched a biodegradable collection in February. Navam Beduschi, group sustainability Manager Malwee, said were necessary adjustments in the production line, but sales have offset the investment. "The result of sales varies according to each innovation. When innovation is understood as a necessity, the sale increases. "
The Malwee also put on the market in 2013, sportswear that release microparticles of moisturizer on your skin. The technology was developed in partnership with Nanovetores, Florianópolis. The fabric is made with standard techniques of moisturizer, which will open up over time, releasing the moisturizing agent. The effect lasts in the fabric for 20 washes.
The Santa Catarina Akmey, textile, biotechnology has developed a formula based on natural enzymes produced by microorganisms that accelerate the process of bleaching and dyeing fibres. The use of the component reduces 30% water consumption, 20% energy and 35% the use of polluting components, like hydrogen peroxide and caustic soda. "In the case of dark fabrics it is possible to eliminate the use of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide, which facilitates also the reuse of water," said Aragon Massaru, commercial Director of Akmey.
The Akmey began offering the component for washing of jeans and he is currently developing versions for knitwear, plush fabric and wovens. The company generates an annual revenue between $ 3 million and $ 4 million and saw demand for their products grow 40% over the last 12 months. One of the customers is Coteminas.
John Lima, Vice President, Coteminas industrial said it reduced in 50% the use of caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide in the bleaching of cotton sheets. Water consumption has also been reduced between 20% and 30%. "This process is used in the factory of São Gonçalo do Amarante [RN] and will be adopted in Blumenau [SC] and João Pessoa. The plan is to adopt innovation also at Montes Claros [MG], "said Lima.
Without citing numbers, Lima says the cost of enzymes is taller than the traditional bleaches, but with the economy of other raw materials, the final cost of production is lower. "Sustainable production also generates value for the brand, in Brazil and abroad," he added.
At the end of 2015, the Akmey received a contribution of 3.5 million fund R$ FIP Inseed Fima-environmental innovation fund, managed by Inseed investments to start exporting. Alexandre Alves, Director of Inseed Investments, said the company is beginning to assemble an Office in Costa Rica to meet industries of Central America and Mexico.
The Nilit, Israeli manufacturer of nylon, also reported that textile industries have replaced imports from purchase of yarns and fabrics in Brazil. "The industries are more concerned with the exchange rate risk and this favors the sales in the country," said Francisco Weffort, Nilit President for Latin America. Among the innovations with more demand, second Weffort, is a nylon thread which reduces in 1 degree Celsius body temperature and has attracted manufacturers of sportswear.
The Invista Lycra brand owner, is another company that saw sales grow with manufacturers by reducing imports of fabrics. "Because of the crisis, the Brazilian consumer also search products more durable, which contributes to increase sales," said Denise Sakuma, Business Director for South America of Invista. Among the innovations sought, said Denise, are biodegradable yarns made based on sugar cane and wires with UV protection technology.
Rafael Cervone, President of Abit, said that new technologies have provided the sector gains in the last ten years, as reduction of water consumption for washing of jeans 100 liters per kilogram of tissue to 7 litres. Another win was the adoption of components to dye the cotton to 98 degrees Celsius, compared to 200 degrees in conventional processes. "Most of the innovation is concentrated in industries of wires," said Cervone.